/* Layout: a quiet editorial column over full-bleed Mara photography; one cinematic hero, then calm bands that alternate Paper, Cream and Onyx. */
:root{
  --paper:#FFFEF8; --cream:#EDE0CF; --latte:#C2B09B; --sand:#ADA69D; --oak:#797061; --moss:#737144; --onyx:#231F20;
  --bg:var(--paper); --fg:var(--onyx); --muted:#6B6355; --band:var(--cream); --rule:rgba(35,31,32,.14);
  --card:#FFFEF8; --accent:var(--moss); --focus:#5B5A33;
  --btn-bg:var(--onyx); --btn-fg:var(--paper);
  --dark:#231F20; --on-dark:#FFFEF8; --on-dark-muted:#D9CDBE;
  --display:"EB Garamond", "Cormorant Garamond", Garamond, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --text:"Hanken Grotesk", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;
  --ease:cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.1,1);
  --wrap:1240px;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark){:root:not([data-theme="light"]){
  --bg:#1C1918; --fg:#EDE0CF; --muted:#BFB3A3; --band:#28231F; --rule:rgba(237,224,207,.16); --card:#221E1C;
  --accent:#B7B47A; --focus:#C2B09B; --btn-bg:#EDE0CF; --btn-fg:#231F20; --dark:#120F0E; color-scheme:dark}}
html:root{
  --bg:#1C1918; --fg:#EDE0CF; --muted:#BFB3A3; --band:#28231F; --rule:rgba(237,224,207,.16); --card:#221E1C;
  --accent:#B7B47A; --focus:#C2B09B; --btn-bg:#EDE0CF; --btn-fg:#231F20; --dark:#120F0E; color-scheme:dark}

*{box-sizing:border-box}
body{margin:0}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{background:var(--bg);color:var(--fg);font-family:var(--text);font-size:17px;line-height:1.6;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;overflow-x:hidden}
body::before{content:"";position:fixed;inset:0 0 auto;height:env(safe-area-inset-top,0px);z-index:60;background:#231F20}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}
a{color:inherit}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;line-height:1.08;margin:0;text-wrap:balance;letter-spacing:-.01em}
p{margin:0}
.wrap{max-width:var(--wrap);margin-inline:auto;padding-left:max(24px,env(safe-area-inset-left,0px));padding-right:max(24px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px))}
@media (max-width:600px){.wrap{padding-left:max(18px,env(safe-area-inset-left,0px));padding-right:max(18px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px))}}
.eyebrow{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);font-weight:500}
.lede{font-size:clamp(17px,1.4vw,19px);color:var(--muted);max-width:56ch}
.h2{font-size:clamp(34px,4.4vw,56px)}
.credit{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.04em;color:var(--muted)}
.skip{position:absolute;left:12px;top:-60px;z-index:100;background:var(--btn-bg);color:var(--btn-fg);padding:10px 16px;border-radius:2px}
.skip:focus{top:calc(12px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px))}
:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:3px}

/* buttons */
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;min-height:48px;padding:0 26px;border-radius:999px;font:500 15px/1 var(--text);letter-spacing:.02em;text-decoration:none;border:1px solid transparent;cursor:pointer;transition:background .3s var(--ease),color .3s var(--ease),transform .3s var(--ease)}
.btn .arr{transition:transform .35s var(--ease)}
.btn:hover .arr{transform:translateX(4px)}
.btn-solid{background:var(--btn-bg);color:var(--btn-fg)}
.btn-light{background:#FFFEF8;color:#231F20}
.btn-light:hover{background:#EDE0CF}
.btn-ghost{border-color:currentColor;background:transparent}
.link{display:inline-flex;gap:10px;align-items:center;font-weight:500;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);padding-bottom:4px;min-height:32px;transition:border-color .3s}
.link:hover{border-color:currentColor}

/* header */
.hdr{position:fixed;top:env(safe-area-inset-top,0px);left:0;right:0;z-index:50;transition:background .45s var(--ease),padding .45s var(--ease);padding-block:18px;color:#FFFEF8;background:rgba(35,31,32,.42);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(14px) saturate(1.15);backdrop-filter:blur(14px) saturate(1.15);border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,254,248,.12)}
.hdr .wrap{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px}
.hdr.solid{background:rgba(35,31,32,.82);padding-block:12px}
.logo{display:block;height:34px;width:auto;position:relative}
.logo img{height:34px;width:auto;transition:opacity .4s}
.logo .lg-dark{position:absolute;inset:0;opacity:0}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark){:root:not([data-theme="light"]) .hdr.solid .logo .lg-light{opacity:1}:root:not([data-theme="light"]) .hdr.solid .logo .lg-dark{opacity:0}}
html:root .hdr.solid .logo .lg-light{opacity:1}
html:root .hdr.solid .logo .lg-dark{opacity:0}
.nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:30px}
.nav a.nl{font-size:14px;text-decoration:none;letter-spacing:.03em;position:relative;padding-block:8px}
.nav a.nl::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:2px;height:1px;background:currentColor;transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left;transition:transform .4s var(--ease)}
.nav a.nl:hover::after{transform:scaleX(1)}
.nav .btn{min-height:42px;padding:0 20px;font-size:14px}
.hdr .nav .btn{background:#FFFEF8;color:#231F20}
.hdr .nav .btn:hover{background:#EDE0CF}
.menu-btn{display:none;background:none;border:0;color:inherit;width:48px;height:48px;cursor:pointer;margin-right:-10px}
@media (max-width:900px){.nav .nl,.nav .btn{display:none}.menu-btn{display:grid;place-items:center}}

/* mobile drawer */
.drawer{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:70;background:var(--dark);color:var(--on-dark);display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:calc(20px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px)) max(24px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px)) calc(28px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px)) max(24px,env(safe-area-inset-left,0px));clip-path:inset(0 0 100% 0);transition:clip-path .6s var(--ease);visibility:hidden}
.drawer.open{clip-path:inset(0 0 0 0);visibility:visible}
.drawer .top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center}
.drawer nav{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px;margin-top:48px}
.drawer nav a{font-family:var(--display);font-size:40px;text-decoration:none;padding-block:6px}
.drawer .foot{margin-top:auto;display:grid;gap:14px;color:var(--on-dark-muted);font-size:15px}

/* hero */
.hero{position:relative;min-height:min(92vh,880px);color:#FFFEF8;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;overflow:hidden;background:#231F20}
.hero .bg{position:absolute;inset:0}
.hero .bg img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transform:scale(1.08);animation:settle 2.6s var(--ease) forwards}
.hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(35,31,32,.55) 0%,rgba(35,31,32,0) 28%,rgba(35,31,32,.05) 50%,rgba(35,31,32,.78) 100%)}
.hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:2;width:100%;padding-block:150px 56px}
.hero .tag{font-family:var(--display);font-style:italic;font-size:clamp(19px,1.8vw,23px);color:#EDE0CF}
.hero h1{font-size:clamp(46px,7.4vw,104px);margin-top:14px;max-width:13ch;font-weight:400}
.hero h1 .ln{display:block;overflow:hidden;padding-bottom:.24em;margin-bottom:-.18em}
.hero h1 .ln>span{display:block;animation:rise 1.1s var(--ease) both}
.hero h1 .ln:nth-child(2)>span{animation-delay:.12s}
.hero .sub{max-width:46ch;font-size:clamp(16px,1.3vw,18px);color:#F3EADF;margin-top:22px;animation:fade 1s .45s var(--ease) both}
.hero .acts{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:14px 26px;margin-top:34px;animation:fade 1s .6s var(--ease) both}
.hero .acts .alt{color:#FFFEF8;font-size:15px}
.hero .meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:24px;margin-top:56px;padding-top:18px;border-top:1px solid rgba(255,254,248,.28)}
.hero .meta .credit{color:#D9CDBE}
.scroll-cue{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#EDE0CF;text-decoration:none}
.scroll-cue i{display:block;width:1px;height:34px;background:rgba(255,254,248,.35);position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.scroll-cue i::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;top:-40%;width:1px;height:40%;background:#FFFEF8;animation:drip 2.2s var(--ease) infinite}
@keyframes settle{to{transform:scale(1)}}
@keyframes rise{from{transform:translateY(105%)}to{transform:none}}
@keyframes fade{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(14px)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
@keyframes drip{to{top:110%}}

/* trust strip */
.trust{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.trust ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr)}
.trust li{padding:26px 22px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule);display:grid;gap:4px}
.trust li:first-child{border-left:0;padding-left:0}
.trust b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:24px;line-height:1.1}
.trust span{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
@media (max-width:900px){.trust ul{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.trust li{padding:20px 16px}.trust li:nth-child(3){border-left:0;padding-left:0}.trust li:nth-child(n+3){border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}}

/* quick paths */
.paths{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.paths a{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:16px;padding:22px 24px;text-decoration:none;border-left:1px solid var(--rule);min-height:72px;transition:background .3s}
.paths a:first-child{border-left:0}
.paths a:hover{background:var(--band)}
.paths b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:22px;display:block}
.paths small{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
.paths .arr{transition:transform .35s var(--ease)}
.paths a:hover .arr{transform:translateX(5px)}
@media (max-width:760px){.paths{grid-template-columns:1fr}.paths a{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);padding:18px 0}.paths a:first-child{border-top:0}}

section{scroll-margin-top:80px}
.sec{padding-block:clamp(48px,6vw,88px)}
.band{background:var(--band)}

/* intro */
.intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.25fr 1fr;gap:clamp(32px,6vw,96px);align-items:start}
.intro h2{font-size:clamp(32px,3.8vw,50px);margin-top:16px}
.intro .lede{margin-top:22px}
.intro .link{margin-top:28px}
.facts{display:grid;gap:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.facts div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:110px 1fr;gap:18px;padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.facts b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:28px;line-height:1}
.facts span{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}
@media (max-width:860px){.intro{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* section header */
.shead{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;gap:20px 64px;align-items:end;margin-bottom:clamp(28px,3.5vw,44px)}
.shead .h2{margin-top:14px}
@media (max-width:860px){.shead{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* destinations */
.dest{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;gap:clamp(28px,5vw,72px);align-items:stretch}
.dest .stage{position:relative;border-radius:2px;overflow:hidden;min-height:520px;background:var(--dark)}
.dest .stage figure{position:absolute;inset:0;margin:0;opacity:0;transition:opacity .9s var(--ease)}
.dest .stage figure img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transform:scale(1.06);transition:transform 6s linear}
.dest .stage figure.on{opacity:1}
.dest .stage figure.on img{transform:scale(1)}
.dest .stage figcaption{position:absolute;left:20px;bottom:16px;right:20px;color:#FFFEF8;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;font-size:12px;z-index:2}
.dest .stage::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:auto 0 0;height:40%;background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(35,31,32,.6));pointer-events:none}
.rlist{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.rlist a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:44px 1fr auto;gap:14px;align-items:baseline;padding:20px 4px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);text-decoration:none;position:relative;transition:padding .45s var(--ease)}
.rlist a::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;bottom:-1px;height:1px;width:100%;background:var(--fg);transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left;transition:transform .6s var(--ease)}
.rlist a.on::before,.rlist a:hover::before{transform:scaleX(1)}
.rlist a.on{padding-left:14px}
.rlist .n{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.rlist b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(24px,2.2vw,30px);line-height:1.1;display:block}
.rlist small{display:block;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:4px;max-height:0;overflow:hidden;opacity:0;transition:max-height .5s var(--ease),opacity .5s}
.rlist a.on small,.rlist a:focus-visible small{max-height:60px;opacity:1}
.rlist .arr{opacity:0;transform:translateX(-6px);transition:.4s var(--ease)}
.rlist a.on .arr{opacity:1;transform:none}
@media (max-width:860px){.dest{grid-template-columns:1fr}.dest .stage{min-height:300px;aspect-ratio:4/3}.rlist small{max-height:none;opacity:1}}

/* places to stay: three at a time, revealed in rows */
.stays{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:40px 28px}
.stay{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:14px;text-decoration:none;min-width:0}
.stay .ph{position:relative;aspect-ratio:4/5;overflow:hidden;border-radius:2px;background:var(--band)}
.stay .ph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform 1.4s var(--ease)}
.stay .ph::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(35,31,32,0) 45%,rgba(35,31,32,.72) 100%);transition:opacity .6s}
.stay .over{position:absolute;left:22px;right:22px;bottom:20px;z-index:2;color:#FFFEF8;display:grid;gap:6px}
.stay .over .loc{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#EDE0CF}
.stay .over h3{font-size:clamp(26px,2.3vw,32px);line-height:1.08}
.stay .over .view{font-size:13px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.04em;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;max-height:0;opacity:0;overflow:hidden;transform:translateY(8px);transition:max-height .5s var(--ease),opacity .5s var(--ease),transform .5s var(--ease)}
.stay .ph .credit{position:absolute;right:12px;top:10px;z-index:2;color:#FFFEF8;text-shadow:0 1px 6px rgba(0,0,0,.6)}
.stay:hover .ph img,.stay:focus-visible .ph img{transform:scale(1.06)}
.stay:hover .over .view,.stay:focus-visible .over .view{max-height:24px;opacity:1;transform:none}
.stay p{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}
.stay .tags{font-size:13px;color:var(--accent);font-weight:500}
.stay .rate{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;margin-bottom:-6px;font-size:13px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.02em;color:var(--fg);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.stay .rate svg{color:var(--accent);flex:none}
.stay .rate .of{color:var(--muted);font-weight:400}
@media (hover:none){.stay .over .view{max-height:24px;opacity:1;transform:none}}
@media (max-width:960px){.stays{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media (max-width:620px){.stays{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:36px}.stay .ph{aspect-ratio:4/3}}
.more{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:18px;margin-top:clamp(36px,4vw,52px);text-align:center}
.more-btn{all:unset;box-sizing:border-box;cursor:pointer;display:inline-flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:12px;font:600 12px/1 var(--text);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:8px 18px;min-height:48px}
.more-btn .ring{width:52px;height:52px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--fg);display:grid;place-items:center;position:relative;transition:background .35s var(--ease),color .35s var(--ease)}
.more-btn .ring::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:-1px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--fg);opacity:.5;animation:halo 2.6s var(--ease) infinite}
.more-btn .ring svg{animation:bob 2.6s var(--ease) infinite}
.more-btn:hover .ring,.more-btn:focus-visible .ring{background:var(--btn-bg);color:var(--btn-fg)}
.more-btn:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:4px;border-radius:4px}
.more-count{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.more-meter{width:160px;height:1px;background:var(--rule);position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.more-meter i{position:absolute;inset:0 auto 0 0;background:var(--fg);transition:width .9s var(--ease)}
.all-cta{transition:opacity .6s var(--ease),transform .6s var(--ease)}
.all-cta.quiet{background:transparent;color:var(--fg);border-color:var(--rule)}
.all-cta.quiet:hover{border-color:var(--fg)}
@keyframes bob{0%,60%,100%{transform:none}30%{transform:translateY(4px)}}
@keyframes halo{0%{transform:scale(1);opacity:.45}70%,100%{transform:scale(1.35);opacity:0}}

/* journeys */
.jgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:28px}
.jcard{text-decoration:none;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--rule);border-radius:2px;overflow:hidden;transition:transform .5s var(--ease),box-shadow .5s var(--ease)}
.jcard:hover{transform:translateY(-4px);box-shadow:0 18px 40px -24px rgba(35,31,32,.45)}
.jcard .ph{aspect-ratio:3/2;overflow:hidden;position:relative}
.jcard .ph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform 1.2s var(--ease)}
.jcard:hover .ph img{transform:scale(1.04)}
.jcard .ph .credit{position:absolute;left:10px;bottom:8px;color:#FFFEF8;text-shadow:0 1px 6px rgba(0,0,0,.6)}
.jcard .body{padding:24px 24px 28px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:12px;flex:1}
.jcard .meta{font-size:13px;color:var(--accent);font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.02em}
.jcard h3{font-size:28px}
.route{list-style:none;margin:10px 0 0;padding:0;position:relative;display:grid;gap:16px}
.route::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:5px;top:8px;bottom:8px;width:1px;background:var(--rule)}
.route::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:5px;top:8px;width:1px;height:calc(100% - 16px);background:var(--fg);transform-origin:top;transform:scaleY(var(--draw,1));transition:transform 1.4s var(--ease) .2s}
.route li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:11px 1fr;gap:14px;align-items:start;position:relative;z-index:1}
.route li::before{content:"";width:11px;height:11px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--fg);background:var(--card);margin-top:6px}
.route li:first-child::before{background:var(--fg)}
.route b{font-weight:500;font-size:15px;display:block}
.route small{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}
.jcard .go{margin-top:auto;padding-top:14px;font-size:14px;font-weight:500;display:flex;gap:8px;align-items:center}
.jcard .go .arr{transition:transform .35s var(--ease)}
.jcard:hover .go .arr{transform:translateX(4px)}
@media (max-width:960px){.jgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr;max-width:560px}}
.inline-cta{margin-top:40px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:16px 28px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:28px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.inline-cta p{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(22px,2.4vw,30px);line-height:1.2}

/* when to go */
.year{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);border:1px solid var(--rule);border-radius:2px;overflow:hidden;position:relative}
.year .slide{position:absolute;top:0;bottom:0;left:0;width:0;background:var(--fg);z-index:0;transition:left .7s var(--ease),width .7s var(--ease)}
.year .m{padding:12px 0;text-align:center;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);border-left:1px solid var(--rule);transition:color .5s var(--ease);position:relative;z-index:1}
.year .m:first-child{border-left:0}
.year .m.hl{color:var(--bg)}
.year .m{cursor:pointer}
.year .m.now::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:50%;bottom:4px;width:4px;height:4px;border-radius:50%;background:currentColor;transform:translateX(-50%)}
.seasons{display:grid;grid-template-columns:3fr 3fr 4fr 2fr;gap:0;margin-top:0}
.season{all:unset;box-sizing:border-box;cursor:pointer;padding:24px 22px 28px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule);display:grid;gap:8px;align-content:start;transition:background .6s var(--ease)}
.season:first-child{border-left:0}
.season.cur{background:var(--band)}
.season.on:not(.cur){background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--band) 45%,transparent)}
.season:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:-2px}
.season b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:24px;line-height:1.15}
.season span{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}
.season em{font-style:normal;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);font-weight:600}
.src{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:24px}
@media (max-width:860px){.year{display:none}.seasons{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.season{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);padding:20px 0}.season:nth-child(even){padding-left:16px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule)}}
@media (max-width:520px){.seasons{grid-template-columns:1fr}.season:nth-child(even){padding-left:0;border-left:0}}

/* plan */
.dark{background:var(--dark);color:var(--on-dark)}
.dark .eyebrow,.dark .lede{color:var(--on-dark-muted)}
.plan{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(36px,6vw,96px);align-items:center}
.steps{list-style:none;margin:40px 0 0;padding:0;position:relative;display:grid;gap:34px}
.steps::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:19px;top:10px;bottom:10px;width:1px;background:rgba(255,254,248,.2)}
.steps::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:19px;top:10px;width:1px;height:calc(100% - 20px);background:#EDE0CF;transform-origin:top;transform:scaleY(var(--p,1))}
.steps li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:40px 1fr;gap:20px;position:relative}
.steps .num{width:39px;height:39px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid rgba(255,254,248,.35);display:grid;place-items:center;font-size:13px;background:var(--dark);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;transition:background .5s,color .5s,border-color .5s}
.steps li.lit .num{background:#EDE0CF;color:#231F20;border-color:#EDE0CF}
.steps b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:26px;display:block;line-height:1.15}
.steps span{color:var(--on-dark-muted);font-size:16px;display:block;margin-top:6px;max-width:42ch}
.plan .ph{position:relative;border-radius:2px;overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:4/5}
.plan .ph img{width:100%;height:115%;object-fit:cover;will-change:transform}
.plan .ph .credit{position:absolute;left:14px;bottom:12px;color:#EDE0CF}
.plan .note{margin-top:34px;padding-top:22px;border-top:1px solid rgba(255,254,248,.18);font-size:15px;color:var(--on-dark-muted)}
.plan .note b{color:#FFFEF8;font-weight:500}
@media (max-width:860px){.plan{grid-template-columns:1fr}.plan .ph{aspect-ratio:4/3}}

/* why + story */
.why{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.why div{padding:30px 28px 8px 0;display:grid;gap:12px;align-content:start}
.why div+div{padding-left:28px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule)}
.why b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:28px;line-height:1.1}
.why p{color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}
@media (max-width:860px){.why{grid-template-columns:1fr}.why div,.why div+div{padding:24px 0;border-left:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}}
.story{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(32px,6vw,96px);align-items:center;margin-top:clamp(44px,5vw,72px)}
.story figure{margin:0}
.story .ph{aspect-ratio:11/8;overflow:hidden;border-radius:2px}
.story .ph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.story figcaption{margin-top:10px}
.story blockquote{margin:0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(24px,2.6vw,34px);line-height:1.25}
.story p{margin-top:20px;color:var(--muted);max-width:52ch}
.story .link{margin-top:26px}
@media (max-width:860px){.story{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* testimonials */
.quotes{text-align:center;max-width:900px;margin-inline:auto}
.qstage{display:grid;margin-top:28px}
.q{grid-area:1/1;margin:0;opacity:0;transform:translateY(10px);transition:opacity .8s var(--ease),transform .8s var(--ease);visibility:hidden}
.q.on{opacity:1;transform:none;visibility:visible}
.q p{font-family:var(--display);font-style:italic;font-size:clamp(25px,3vw,38px);line-height:1.3;text-wrap:balance}
.q footer{margin-top:22px;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);letter-spacing:.04em}
.qctl{display:flex;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:18px;margin-top:34px}
/* testimonial arrows: same circle as "More places to stay" */
.qring{all:unset;box-sizing:border-box;cursor:pointer;display:grid;place-items:center;min-width:52px;min-height:52px;color:var(--fg)}
.qring .ring{width:52px;height:52px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--fg);display:grid;place-items:center;transition:background .35s var(--ease),color .35s var(--ease)}
.qring svg{transition:transform .35s var(--ease)}
.qring:hover .ring,.qring:focus-visible .ring{background:var(--btn-bg);color:var(--btn-fg)}
#qnext:hover svg{transform:translateX(3px)}#qprev:hover svg{transform:translateX(-3px)}
.qring:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:4px;border-radius:50%}
.dots{display:flex;gap:2px}
.dots button{all:unset;cursor:pointer;width:28px;height:44px;display:grid;place-items:center}
.dots button i{width:7px;height:7px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--sand);transition:background .3s,transform .3s}
.dots button[aria-current="true"] i{background:var(--fg);transform:scale(1.3)}
.dots button:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:-6px;border-radius:50%}
.qnote{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:14px}

/* closing */
.close{position:relative;color:#FFFEF8;overflow:hidden;background:#231F20}
.close .bg{position:absolute;inset:-8% 0;}
.close .bg img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;will-change:transform}
.close::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:rgba(35,31,32,.6)}
.close .wrap{position:relative;z-index:2;padding-block:clamp(72px,9vw,120px);display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;gap:48px;align-items:end}
.close h2{font-size:clamp(40px,5.6vw,76px);max-width:12ch}
.close .lede{color:#F3EADF;margin-top:20px}
.close .acts{margin-top:34px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:14px}
.close .btn-ghost{color:#FFFEF8}
.close .btn-ghost:hover{background:rgba(255,254,248,.12)}
.direct{display:grid;gap:0;border-top:1px solid rgba(255,254,248,.3)}
.direct div{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;padding:16px 0;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,254,248,.3);flex-wrap:wrap}
.direct dt{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#D9CDBE}
.direct dd{margin:0;font-size:16px;user-select:all}
.direct .hint{border:0;padding-top:14px;font-size:14px;color:#D9CDBE}
@media (max-width:860px){.close .wrap{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* footer */
.ftr{padding-block:56px calc(36px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px));background:var(--dark);color:var(--on-dark)}
.ftr .tag,.ftr h4,.ftr .bot{color:var(--on-dark-muted)!important}
.ftr .bot{border-top-color:rgba(255,254,248,.16)!important}
.ftr ul{color:#F3EADF}
.ftr .bot a{color:var(--on-dark-muted)}
.ftr .top{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr 1.4fr;gap:40px}
.ftr .logo img{height:32px}
.ftr .tag{font-family:var(--display);font-style:italic;color:var(--muted);margin-top:14px;font-size:18px}
.ftr h4{margin:0 0 14px;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);font-weight:500}
.ftr ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;gap:6px;font-size:15px}
.ftr ul a{text-decoration:none;padding-block:4px;display:inline-block}
.ftr ul a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.ftr ul li.sub a{padding-left:18px;color:var(--muted);font-size:14px}
@media (min-width:861px){.ftr .top>div:last-child{justify-self:end}}
.ftr .bot{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;margin-top:56px;padding-top:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);flex-wrap:wrap}
.ftr .ftr-lg-light{display:none}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark){:root:not([data-theme="light"]) .ftr .ftr-lg-dark{display:none}:root:not([data-theme="light"]) .ftr .ftr-lg-light{display:block}}
html:root .ftr .ftr-lg-dark{display:none}
html:root .ftr .ftr-lg-light{display:block}
@media (max-width:860px){.ftr .top{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* mobile enquiry bar */
.mbar{position:fixed;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;z-index:40;display:none;gap:10px;padding:10px max(16px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px)) calc(10px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px)) max(16px,env(safe-area-inset-left,0px));background:var(--bg);box-shadow:0 -1px 0 var(--rule);transform:translateY(110%);transition:transform .5s var(--ease)}
.mbar.show{transform:none}
.mbar .btn{flex:1;justify-content:center;min-height:48px;padding:0 14px}
.mbar .btn-ghost{flex:0 0 auto;color:var(--fg)}
@media (max-width:760px){.mbar{display:flex}.ftr{padding-bottom:calc(110px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px))}}

/* reveal: elements stay legible at rest; motion only adds a gentle lift */
.js .rv{opacity:.35;transform:translateY(28px);transition:opacity 1s var(--ease),transform 1s var(--ease)}
.js .rv.in{opacity:1;transform:none}
.js .rv.d1{transition-delay:.08s}.js .rv.d2{transition-delay:.16s}.js .rv.d3{transition-delay:.24s}

/* reviewer notes */
.rnote{font-size:12px;line-height:1.5;background:#FFF3C4;color:#4A3F12;border:1px dashed #B39A3A;padding:8px 12px;border-radius:2px;margin-top:16px;max-width:70ch}
.hide-notes .rnote{display:none}
.notes-toggle{position:fixed;right:max(16px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px));bottom:calc(16px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px));z-index:45;font:500 12px/1 var(--text);background:#FFF3C4;color:#4A3F12;border:1px solid #B39A3A;border-radius:999px;padding:10px 14px;cursor:pointer;min-height:40px}
@media (max-width:760px){.notes-toggle{bottom:calc(84px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px))}}


/* motion and shading carried over from Our Story (2026-10-18) */
.hero.hero-home::after{background:radial-gradient(circle at 50% 40%,rgba(35,31,32,0) 35%,rgba(35,31,32,.6) 130%),linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(35,31,32,.55) 0%,rgba(35,31,32,0) 28%,rgba(35,31,32,.05) 50%,rgba(35,31,32,.8) 100%)}
.js .hero-home .bg img{filter:grayscale(1) brightness(.9);animation:settle 2.6s var(--ease) forwards,tocolour 2.4s var(--ease) .5s forwards;translate:0 var(--hy,0px);scale:var(--hs,1)}
@keyframes tocolour{to{filter:none}}
.hero-home .bg::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:#231F20;opacity:var(--hd,0);pointer-events:none}
.js .litw .wi{display:inline-block;opacity:.13;transform:translateY(.45em);filter:blur(4px);transition:opacity .5s var(--ease),transform .5s var(--ease),filter .5s var(--ease)}
.js .litw .wi.lit{opacity:1;transform:none;filter:none}
.tone{position:relative}
.tone::after,.dest .stage figure::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;z-index:1;background:radial-gradient(circle,rgba(35,31,32,0) 45%,rgba(35,31,32,.55) 135%)}
.tone .credit,.tone figcaption{z-index:2}
.jcard .ph.tone .credit{position:absolute}
.js .tone img{filter:grayscale(1) brightness(.92);transition:filter 2.2s var(--ease) .2s}
.js .jcard .tone img{transition:filter 2.2s var(--ease) .2s,transform 1.2s var(--ease)}
.js .tone.lit img{filter:none}
.stay .ph::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;z-index:1;background:radial-gradient(circle,rgba(35,31,32,0) 50%,rgba(35,31,32,.45) 140%)}
.close::after{background:radial-gradient(circle,rgba(35,31,32,.35) 20%,rgba(35,31,32,.85) 125%)}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce){.js .hero-home .bg img{filter:none;translate:none;scale:1}.hero-home .bg::after{opacity:0}.js .litw .wi{opacity:1;transform:none;filter:none}.js .tone img{filter:none}}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce){
  *,*::before,*::after{animation-duration:.001ms!important;animation-iteration-count:1!important;transition-duration:.001ms!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}
  .hero .bg img{transform:none}
  .js .rv{opacity:1;transform:none}
  .scroll-cue i::after{display:none}
}

/* Kenya page (prototype 2026-10-18): Our Story motion applied */
.hero.hero-story{min-height:min(78vh,760px)}
.hero.hero-story::after{background:radial-gradient(circle at 50% 40%,rgba(35,31,32,0) 35%,rgba(35,31,32,.6) 130%),linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(35,31,32,.55) 0%,rgba(35,31,32,0) 28%,rgba(35,31,32,.05) 50%,rgba(35,31,32,.8) 100%)}
.js .hero-story .bg img{filter:grayscale(1) brightness(.9);animation:settle 2.6s var(--ease) forwards,tocolour 2.4s var(--ease) .5s forwards;translate:0 var(--hy,0px);scale:var(--hs,1)}
.hero-story .bg::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:#231F20;opacity:var(--hd,0);pointer-events:none}
.hero h1.country{font-size:clamp(64px,10vw,140px);max-width:none}
.crumb{padding-block:18px;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.crumb a{text-decoration:none}.crumb a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
/* opening */
.opening{display:grid;grid-template-columns:220px 1fr;gap:clamp(24px,5vw,80px);align-items:start}
.opening .eyebrow{position:relative;padding-top:14px}
.opening .eyebrow::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;top:0;width:48px;height:1px;background:var(--accent);transform-origin:left}
.js .opening .eyebrow::before{transform:scaleX(var(--op,0));transition:transform .3s linear}
.opening h2{font-size:clamp(34px,4vw,52px);margin-bottom:22px}
.opening .big{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(20px,1.75vw,25px);line-height:1.5}
.opening .more-p{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px;margin-top:28px;color:var(--muted)}
@media (max-width:860px){.opening{grid-template-columns:1fr}.opening .more-p{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.glance{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(5,1fr);border-top:1px solid var(--rule);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);margin-top:clamp(44px,5vw,64px)}
.glance div{padding:24px 20px 22px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule);display:grid;gap:6px;align-content:start}
.glance div:first-child{border-left:0;padding-left:0}
.glance small{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}
.glance b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:24px;line-height:1.15}
.glance span{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}
@media (max-width:960px){.glance{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.glance div{border-left:0;padding-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}.glance div:nth-child(-n+2){border-top:0}}
/* safari regions carousel */
.rtrack{display:grid;grid-auto-flow:column;grid-auto-columns:calc((100% - 3*24px)/4);gap:24px;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;scrollbar-width:none;padding-bottom:6px}
.rtrack::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.rcard{scroll-snap-align:start;text-decoration:none;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:12px;min-width:0}
.rcard .ph{position:relative;aspect-ratio:4/5;overflow:hidden;border-radius:2px;background:var(--band)}
.rcard .ph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform 1.4s var(--ease),filter 2.2s var(--ease) .2s!important}
.rcard:hover .ph img{transform:scale(1.06)}
.rcard .ph::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:1;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(35,31,32,0) 50%,rgba(35,31,32,.7) 100%);pointer-events:none}
.rcard .over{position:absolute;left:20px;right:20px;bottom:18px;z-index:2;color:#FFFEF8;display:grid;gap:4px}
.rcard .over .loc{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#EDE0CF}
.rcard .over h3{font-size:clamp(24px,2.1vw,30px)}
.rcard .ph .credit{position:absolute;right:12px;top:10px;color:#FFFEF8;text-shadow:0 1px 6px rgba(0,0,0,.6)}
.rcard p{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}
.rcard .tags{font-size:13px;color:var(--accent);font-weight:500}
.rctl{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;margin-top:28px;gap:18px}
.rctl .arrows{display:flex;gap:14px}
.rctl .prog{flex:1;max-width:240px;height:1px;background:var(--rule);position:relative}
.rctl .prog i{position:absolute;inset:0 auto 0 0;background:var(--fg);width:var(--rp,66%);transition:width .5s var(--ease)}
.rctl .cnt{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.qring[disabled]{opacity:.3;cursor:default}
@media (max-width:1100px){.rtrack{grid-auto-columns:calc((100% - 2*24px)/3)}}
@media (max-width:760px){.rtrack{grid-auto-columns:78%}}
/* experiences: dark band, as Our Story's chapters */
.xband{background:#231F20;color:#EDE0CF;--fg:#EDE0CF;--muted:#BFB3A3;--rule:rgba(237,224,207,.16);--accent:#C2B09B;padding-block:clamp(72px,9vw,130px);overflow:hidden}
.xband h2,.xband h3{color:#FFFEF8}
.xband .eyebrow{color:#C2B09B}
.xgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:clamp(48px,6vw,80px) clamp(24px,3vw,40px);margin-top:clamp(40px,5vw,64px)}
.xcard{position:relative;display:grid;gap:12px;align-content:start}
.xcard>*:not(.ghost){position:relative;z-index:1}
.xcard .ghost{position:absolute;z-index:0;right:-4%;top:-.42em;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(90px,9vw,150px);line-height:1;color:transparent;-webkit-text-stroke:1px rgba(194,176,155,.3);translate:0 var(--gy,0px);pointer-events:none}
.xcard .media{margin:0 0 8px}
.xcard .ph{position:relative;aspect-ratio:4/3;overflow:hidden;background:#2C2724}
.xcard .ph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.xcard .ph::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;background:radial-gradient(circle,rgba(35,31,32,0) 40%,rgba(35,31,32,.7) 130%),linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(35,31,32,0) 65%,rgba(35,31,32,.45) 100%)}
.xcard .ph .credit{position:absolute;left:12px;bottom:10px;z-index:2;color:#EDE0CF}
.js .grow .ph{clip-path:inset(var(--ci,12%))}
.js .grow .ph img{scale:var(--gs,1.25);filter:grayscale(var(--gg,1)) brightness(var(--gb,.85))}
.xcard h3{font-size:clamp(26px,2.4vw,32px)}
.xcard .xd{color:#BFB3A3;font-size:16px}
.xcard .link{justify-self:start;color:#FFFEF8;margin-top:6px}
@media (max-width:960px){.xgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media (max-width:620px){.xgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
/* when to go */
.kyear{position:relative}
.kmonths{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.kmonths span{text-align:center;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.1em;color:var(--muted);padding:12px 0;position:relative}
.kmonths span.now{color:var(--fg);font-weight:600}
.kmonths span.now::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:50%;bottom:-4px;width:7px;height:7px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--fg);transform:translateX(-50%)}
.krows{display:grid;gap:18px;margin-top:26px}
.krow{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(12,1fr);align-items:center;row-gap:8px}
.krow .bar{height:40px;border-radius:2px;background:var(--band);grid-row:1;transform-origin:left;transform:scaleX(var(--bx,1));transition:transform 1.3s var(--ease) var(--bd,0s)}
.krow .bar.dark{background:var(--fg)}
.krow .bar.mid{background:var(--latte)}
.krow .lab{grid-column:1/-1;grid-row:2;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 14px;align-items:baseline}
.krow .lab b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:20px}
.krow .lab small{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}
.ktag{position:absolute;top:-30px;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);font-weight:600;transform:translateX(-50%);white-space:nowrap}
.knote{margin-top:28px;color:var(--muted);max-width:60ch}
/* destinations map */
.tabs{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);margin-bottom:32px;position:relative}
.tab{all:unset;cursor:pointer;padding:14px 18px;font-size:15px;color:var(--muted);position:relative;min-height:20px;transition:color .3s}
.tab span{font-size:12px;margin-left:4px;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.tab.on{color:var(--fg)}
.tab:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:-2px}
.tabline{position:absolute;bottom:-1px;height:2px;background:var(--fg);transition:left .6s var(--ease),width .6s var(--ease)}
.pane{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.45fr 1fr;gap:clamp(28px,4vw,56px);align-items:start}
.pane[hidden]{display:none}
.map{position:relative;aspect-ratio:780/560;border-radius:2px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--band)}
.map img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.map.nomap{display:grid;place-items:center;padding:24px;text-align:center;color:var(--muted)}
.pin{all:unset;box-sizing:border-box;position:absolute;width:28px;height:28px;margin:-14px 0 0 -14px;border-radius:50%;background:#231F20;color:#FFFEF8;font:600 12px/28px var(--text);text-align:center;cursor:pointer;box-shadow:0 0 0 2px #FFFEF8;transition:transform .35s var(--ease),background .35s}
.js .pane.enter .pin{animation:pinIn .7s var(--ease) both;animation-delay:var(--pd)}
@keyframes pinIn{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(-14px) scale(.6)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
.pin.hot,.pin:focus-visible{background:var(--moss);transform:scale(1.25);z-index:3}
.mtip{position:absolute;z-index:4;background:#FFFEF8;color:#231F20;padding:10px 14px;border-radius:2px;box-shadow:0 10px 30px -12px rgba(0,0,0,.5);display:grid;gap:2px;pointer-events:none;opacity:0;transform:translate(-50%,calc(-100% - 22px));transition:opacity .25s}
.mtip.show{opacity:1}
.mtip small{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#6B6355}
.mtip b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:18px;white-space:nowrap}
.mkey{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 20px;margin-top:12px;font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}
.mkey i{display:inline-block;width:12px;height:12px;border-radius:2px;margin-right:6px;vertical-align:-2px}
.mkey .k1{background:#737144}.mkey .k2{background:#C2B09B}
.js .pane.enter .map img{animation:mapIn 1s var(--ease) both}
@keyframes mapIn{from{opacity:0;transform:scale(1.04)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
.dlist>.link{white-space:nowrap;max-width:100%}
.dlist .cnt{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:12px}
.dlist ol{list-style:none;margin:0 0 24px;padding:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.dlist li a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:30px 1fr;gap:12px;align-items:baseline;padding:11px 4px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);text-decoration:none;transition:padding .4s var(--ease),background .3s}
.dlist li a .n{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.dlist li a b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:19px;display:block;line-height:1.2}
.dlist li a small{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}
.dlist li a.hot{padding-left:14px;background:var(--band)}
.js .pane.enter .dlist li{animation:fade .7s var(--ease) both}
@media (max-width:900px){.pane{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
/* specialists */
.people{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(24px,4vw,56px)}
.person{display:grid;grid-template-columns:200px 1fr;gap:24px;align-items:start}
.person .ph{aspect-ratio:4/5;overflow:hidden;border-radius:2px;position:relative;background:var(--band)}
.person .ph::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(35,31,32,0) 60%,rgba(35,31,32,.6) 100%),radial-gradient(circle,rgba(35,31,32,0) 55%,rgba(35,31,32,.35) 140%)}
.person .ph img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;filter:saturate(.75);transition:transform 1.2s var(--ease),filter 1.2s var(--ease)}
.person:hover .ph img{transform:scale(1.04);filter:none}
.person .ph .credit{position:absolute;left:10px;bottom:8px;z-index:1;color:#FFFEF8}
.person .role{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);font-weight:600}
.person h3{font-size:32px;margin-top:8px}
.person p{margin-top:12px;color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}
@media (max-width:1000px){.people{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
@media (max-width:520px){.person{grid-template-columns:1fr}.person .ph{max-width:260px}}
/* before you travel */
.tips{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
.tips div{padding:28px 28px 8px 0;display:grid;gap:12px;align-content:start}
.tips div+div{padding-left:28px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule)}
.tips b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:28px}
.tips p{color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}
.checked{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:24px}
@media (max-width:860px){.tips{grid-template-columns:1fr}.tips div,.tips div+div{padding:22px 0;border-left:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}}
/* questions */
.faq{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);max-width:900px}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.faq summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;align-items:center;padding:22px 0;font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(21px,2vw,24px)}
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq summary i{width:36px;height:36px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--fg);position:relative;flex:none;transition:background .35s,color .35s}
.faq summary i::before,.faq summary i::after{content:"";position:absolute;left:50%;top:50%;width:12px;height:1px;background:currentColor;transform:translate(-50%,-50%);transition:transform .45s var(--ease)}
.faq summary i::after{transform:translate(-50%,-50%) rotate(90deg)}
.faq details[open] summary i::after{transform:translate(-50%,-50%) rotate(0)}
.faq summary:hover i{background:var(--btn-bg);color:var(--btn-fg)}
.faq .ans{overflow:hidden}
.faq .ans p{padding:0 0 24px;color:var(--muted);max-width:70ch}
.close .credit{position:absolute;right:max(24px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px));bottom:16px;z-index:2;color:#D9CDBE}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce){.js .hero-story .bg img{filter:none;translate:none;scale:1}.hero-story .bg::after{opacity:0}.js .opening .eyebrow::before{transform:none}.js .grow .ph{clip-path:none}.js .grow .ph img{scale:1;filter:none}.xcard .ghost{translate:none}.krow .bar{transform:none}}

/* safari region cards: black and white until hovered or focused (Shafiq 2026-10-19); touch screens keep the colour reveal on scroll */
@media (hover:hover){
 .rcard .ph img{filter:grayscale(1) brightness(.9)!important;transition:transform 1.4s var(--ease),filter .6s var(--ease)!important}
 .rcard:hover .ph img,.rcard:focus-visible .ph img{filter:none!important}
}
@media (hover:hover) and (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce){.rcard .ph img{transition:none!important}}

/* Places to stay index (prototype 2026-10-19) */
.fbar{position:sticky;top:64px;z-index:20;background:rgba(28,25,24,.94);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-block:1px solid var(--rule);margin-bottom:clamp(32px,4vw,48px)}
.fbar .wrap{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:14px 24px;padding-block:14px}
.chips{display:flex;gap:8px;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;flex:1 1 100%;min-width:0;padding:2px}
.chips::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.chip{all:unset;box-sizing:border-box;cursor:pointer;white-space:nowrap;font:500 14px/1 var(--text);color:#EDE0CF;padding:11px 16px;min-height:44px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;border:1px solid rgba(237,224,207,.2);border-radius:99px;transition:background .35s var(--ease),color .35s var(--ease),border-color .35s var(--ease)}
.chip span{font-size:12px;color:#BFB3A3;transition:color .35s var(--ease)}
.chip:hover{border-color:#EDE0CF}
.chip[aria-pressed="true"]{background:#EDE0CF;color:#231F20;border-color:#EDE0CF}
.chip[aria-pressed="true"] span{color:#231F20}
.chip:focus-visible,.fsel select:focus-visible,.clear:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:3px}
.fsels{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px}.fsel{position:relative}
.fsel select{appearance:none;-webkit-appearance:none;font:500 14px/1 var(--text);color:#EDE0CF;background:transparent;border:1px solid rgba(237,224,207,.2);border-radius:99px;padding:13px 40px 13px 16px;min-height:44px;cursor:pointer}
.fsel select option{color:#231F20;background:#FFFEF8}
.fsel::after{content:"";position:absolute;right:17px;top:50%;width:7px;height:7px;border-right:1.5px solid #EDE0CF;border-bottom:1.5px solid #EDE0CF;transform:translateY(-70%) rotate(45deg);pointer-events:none}
.rmeta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:baseline;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px 24px;margin-bottom:28px}
.rmeta .count{font-family:var(--display);font-size:clamp(24px,2.4vw,32px);color:#EDE0CF}
.rmeta .hint{font-size:14px;color:#BFB3A3}
.clear{all:unset;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;color:#EDE0CF;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px;margin-left:14px}
.clear[hidden]{display:none}
.pgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(36px,4vw,56px) clamp(20px,2.5vw,32px)}
.pgrid .stay{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:12px;text-decoration:none;min-width:0}
.pgrid .stay[hidden]{display:none}
.pgrid .stay.enter{animation:cardIn .8s var(--ease) both;animation-delay:calc(var(--k,0)*70ms)}
@keyframes cardIn{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(24px)}to{opacity:1;transform:none}}
.stay .ph img.alt{position:absolute;inset:0;opacity:0;transition:opacity .7s var(--ease),transform 1.4s var(--ease)}
.stay .ph .c1{opacity:0;transition:opacity .5s var(--ease)}
.stay .ph .c0{transition:opacity .5s var(--ease)}
@media (hover:hover){
 .stay .ph img{filter:grayscale(1) brightness(.9);transition:transform 1.4s var(--ease),filter .6s var(--ease),opacity .7s var(--ease)}
 .stay:hover .ph img,.stay:focus-visible .ph img{filter:none}
 .stay:hover .ph.two img.alt,.stay:focus-visible .ph.two img.alt{opacity:1}
 .stay:hover .ph .c1,.stay:focus-visible .ph .c1{opacity:1}
 .stay:hover .ph:has(.c1) .c0,.stay:focus-visible .ph:has(.c1) .c0{opacity:0}
}
.stay:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--focus);outline-offset:6px;border-radius:2px}
.empty{padding:40px 0;color:#BFB3A3}
.empty button{all:unset;cursor:pointer;color:#EDE0CF;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}
.pmore{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:14px;margin-top:clamp(48px,6vw,72px)}
.pmore[hidden]{display:none}
@media (max-width:1000px){.pgrid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}
@media (max-width:620px){.pgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.pgrid .stay .ph{aspect-ratio:4/3}.fbar .wrap{gap:10px}.chips{flex-basis:100%}.fsels{flex-basis:100%}.fbar .wrap{padding-block:10px;gap:8px}.fsels{gap:8px}.fsels .fsel{flex:1 1 100%}.fsel select{width:100%}}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce){.pgrid .stay.enter{animation:none}.stay .ph img,.stay .ph img.alt,.stay .ph .credit{transition:none!important}}
.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0);white-space:nowrap}